these instructions are valid for all cars and all android car radios!
the rexton doesn’t come with a navigation system even with a "full cabin", if you don’t have one installed by your friendly dealer. But we can remedy this. The entire installation is not witchcraft and anyone who has ever installed a simple radio can do it without this manual. The only hurdle is the removal of the old bezel, which is clipped.
removing the panel was – and still is – an eternal mystery in most ssangyong forums. I found this french document (link disappeared) about how to install a parrot system in the rexton very helpful.
I have installed the following materials:
You absolutely need, no matter which double DIN radio you choose and which vehicle you own:
radio cover (1) CT23SY10 for ssangyong rexton
100,- EUR? LOL! just ask your local radio dealer for a normal price. I also paid "only" 59,- EUR for it on the spot.
Or just a specific radio bezel (1) / radio frame for your vehicle
a few euros in the single digits.
Or just the ISO adapter for your vehicle (1), or. The vehicle manufacturer.
You can also buy 44-1275-002 (1), then you can also use the aux-in and USB in the dashboard. but i just put the two usb and the ipod cable in the glove compartment, there it is out of sight.
Or just the aux/USB connector (1) for the dashboard of your vehicle.
Lever tool set (1) – this is worth its weight in gold and will allow you to easily remove any fairing from your vehicle without damage.
If you drive a VAG-vehicle (VW, audi, skoda, seat), you still need an active antenna amplifier (1) . but the reception remains rather mediocre, because you should buy their overpriced infotainment solutions.
From here on it’s your decision, what you want to take from the components.
Pumpkin C0234-DE1-B, RK3188 cortex A9 quad core 1,6ghz, 8GB ROM, 1 GB RAM, 6,2″ 800x480px-display, double-DIN, 2x micros-SD-card-slots, GPS, WLAN, BT, DVD. Or another (1) .
Yes, a real chinacracker. But my wife didn’t want a new radio (a manual FM radio would be enough for her), she just didn’t want a rear view monitor on the dashboard. The parking sensors work great, but with the cam you can just aim better. To the rear you see absolutely nothing in the rexton W. Zero. Nada. the radio will also show a camera image if it hasn’t booted yet. no matter what is running: as soon as the camera input gets a picture, everything is muted.
The radio is already really okay. Stands z. B. My JVC in no way inferior. On the contrary. The haptics are much better. The send search and the sensitivity is also obergeil! An 8 GB stick full of music is read in two or three seconds and the GPS fix takes maybe 10 seconds the first time. Also booting from android is much faster than i feared it would be. The radio can be operated surprisingly smoothly. No lag, no jerks, nothing! Always remember: is only a quad core with 1.6 ghz. Better than phones with this corner data, for whatever reason. Really very, very good.
Igo with europe complete is also included. A 4-core with adjustable lighting, DVD, TMC pro, WLAN, bluetooth, dashcam connectivity, etc – for only 320,- EUR. You just get a warm and humid handshake from "brand" manufacturers.
The pumpkin sounds… well… i never turned up the original radio. The pumpkin also almost never. The sound is so at normal volume. I don’t know… the center lacks the final presence and clarity. Brand manufacturers can do this a bit better (if you are lucky). But this is complaining on a really high level. If you turn up the pumpkin, all this is forgotten anyway, then it plays fat and powerful on. Very decent bass foundation – you can’t complain about that. In other words: the neighbors hear K.I.Z. – whether you like it or not. &
Whether this is really useful is rather questionable. For parking certainly completely useless, because the parking sensors do not whine yet, if you would not drive even after the camera image a centimeter further. But dogs or preschool children (we have both) you can not see in front of the car – and whether the sensors warn in time enough?
Adjustable. Good picture. But with the sapphire add-on package you can’t install it at the intended place of the tailgate, because there is the opener of the tailgate window. But the cam fits perfectly on the opposite side.
The camera switch (1) switches the camera image for approx. 30 seconds from the rear camera to the front camera. in practice: reverse gear in, radio shows what’s happening behind the car. reverse gear out: radio shows the picture in front of the car. So with automatic, the front camera image is always displayed when driving off, because you have to shift from "P" to "R" to "D". The switch is only needed if you want to install a front camera.
Small stuff from pollin
A few simple 2 m and 5 m cinch extensions (1) and cables. The ones you can simply pull apart, so that one stereo cable always makes two "video" cables. Or just directly a video cable for twice the money in the same quality. &
a few meters of different colored stranded wires, 1,5 mm².
A fuse holder.
Lots of cable ties.
A few power thieves.
More information about the pumpkin-radio
These china radios are available with the operating systems wince and android. Wince is absolutely not recommended, it’s completely outdated, inflexible and the app selection is extremely limited.
The android radios are definitely the first choice.
Most of these android-china-RNS are based on a pure android aka huifei-device (MTCB), which is great, because you can get firmware-updates and modified apps for it at XDA-developers. So this pumpkin-radio can be controlled from 4.4 on 5.1 upgrade. After all, more than you can expect from an expensive "branded" product. The MCU sorted by type can be found here.
Our pumpkin is actually from the manufacturer "klyde", like and the designation MTCB-KLD2-V.2.51 (22. April 2015) under "about this tablet" reveals. A nice, albeit older, guide to flashing the firmware can be found here.
The key data are: pumpkin C0234-DE1-B, RK3188 cortex A9 quad core 1,6ghz, 8GB ROM, 1 GB RAM, 6,2″ 800x480px-display, double-DIN, 2x micros-SD-card-slots, GPS, WLAN, BT, DVD.
After a year of continuous use, the only thing we’ve noticed so far is that the front camera sometimes freezes up. This has nothing to do with the android version, because android is not even started at this point of time. This is because of the MCU, the micro controller unit, a kind of BIOS which takes care of communication between the hardware and the GUI (android/wince). But so far I haven’t changed the android version, nor the MCU on our device. this video shows how to reflash the MCU on a punpkin radio. Yes it is, i have updated the device now and i have written a detailed INSTRUCTION for it as well.
What really bothers me about the navigation (igo) is that it sometimes makes announcements only 100 m before a highway exit. In the app itself I set it to 500 m, which is still way too short – but more was not possible. Now all that is left is to make changes via the config-files. But this is obviously not a problem of the radio manufacturer, but set as default in igo. Annoying.
I am also bothered by the control view of the radio in the center console. Apparently it is not possible to mirror the screen content to a smaller external monitor, which you can z. B. In the direct field of vision of the driver could mount. but we remember: my wife didn’t want to have a monitor mounted in the car. Currently I am thinking about installing the HUD from garmin, but for that I would have to change from igo to navigon.
ATTENTION! DO NOT COPY!
- This is no instruction!
- The article serves personal documentation!
- This article is not intended to replace the enclosed instructions, installation instructions or installation instructions replace!
- This article is intended to be a rough overview allow about the work to be done.
- The article raises no claim to completeness or even correctness.
- Here I describe how i these work as layman not how to do it correctly or how to do it by hand standards, regulations or laws does.
- I do not accept any responsibility, liability and warranty from. Everyone must know for himself what he does.
- Some work has been done by non-specialists not allowed, respectively unlawful and in some cases require at least the approval of a trained authorized.
- Some actions and work are in the public area (road traffic, power grid, airspace, internet, etc).) forbidden or violate license agreements, which may have criminal or civil consequences.
- 230 volt are deadly!
- No backup? No pity!
- My 3D models are only feasibility studies, no tested, working parts.
- The described activities are as follows purely academic nature.
- consider that due to your work third at life and limb endangered can become and you are personally liable for it.
By continuing to read, you agree to this disclaimer.
Removal of the original radio
Actually, you just have to push the big tool (with the flattest tip from the set) in deep and lever it a bit, then it will click out by itself. Today it should be warm, ideal so that the plastic does not suffer.
(oldfashioned: the screen)
( such a part is the be-all and end-all. With this it works like nix! crack-crack! From! )
i reached underneath the automatic climate control with both hands and pulled the cover, so that it was half out. Then with the lever the sides clipped out.
(front panel removed)
Now loosen the four screws of the radio and pull it together with the cage out of the shaft. All plugs on the back loosen. Radio neatly pack and safely store in the basement.
The upper cover is also lifted to the middle, away from the edge – but actually it should be clipped in the flat angle towards the rear of the car upwards. But it does not matter, goes out that way. It has to be, there is no other way. Aaaber vooorsiiicht! First loosen the two screws on the left and right side of the panel!
(loosen one screw on the left and one screw on the right). The single, upper one on the picture and the counterpart on the left side.)
(yes, that makes you wonder, doesn’t it?? Should one, or should one not? My tip: just do it! Do not think!)
Steering wheel remote control
The chinakracher from pumpkin eats all kinds of steering wheel remotes without adapter, so also the one from the rexton. Everything super easy. These two cables only have to be connected to the ssangyong adapter (not to the ISO adapter). I have fixed the cables after the test of course with stromdieben.
(for test only plugged in: steering wheel remote control cable)
The gps antenna from the radio is a little bit bigger than the one from ssangyong, but it fits into the slot without any problems. Of course, the cable is pulled through the friendly big hole, that was just a test.
(GPS antenna – the brass colored part is the car socket on the dashboard)
Insert the radio
install new cage, connect cable with ISO adapter to radio. the illu-cable is connected to switch plus (red). Otherwise the buttons are not illuminated.
Slide in the radio, clip the bezels back in place.
Don’t install the radio yet, if you still want to install the cameras!
(installed, picture was taken one year after installation, radio still works). & )
The annoying problem with the bezel
The bezel of the pumpkin is exactly 180 x 100 mm. Great, or? Yes, but many other double DIN radios are smaller. Clarion z.B. Consequently, the cutouts of the radioblende are also somewhat smaller than the dimensions of the DIN standard. This refers only to the dimensions of the mounting slot itself! Not on the ones of the fascia! stupid, or?
Well, ACV, the manufacturer of this panel, thought that 175 x 95 mm would be a good compromise. So you have the depth of the edge of the bezel with also approx. 5mm quite flat out. The pumpkin is therefore about 5 mm too deep in the shaft and the panel is covered all around 2.5mm of the vehicle-specific mounting frame. Since the panel but anyway a much more "recessed" installation position of the radio provides*) – it stands ca. 1 cm further in than the original radio, which is flush with the front of the dashboard – the 5 mm won’t make any difference.
*) why is it like this?
Very simple: the dashboard of the rexton is convex, so it curves outwards in every direction. Radios are but now once more or less straight and flat. Just because of the screen. The original radio is also convex.
Nevertheless, I’m thinking of reinstalling the original panel, which has a cutout of 180 × 113 mm, so in height is 1.3 cm larger. That means that I have a slot above and below the radio of approx. 6 mm would have to close. Let’s see how I could solve this.
Optional installation of the cameras
For now without pictures, but should be clear when you stand in front of the vehicle and look at everything in the engine compartment.
In the front I have a camera (1) under the brand logo with dekasil glued in. The cable runs invisibly in a strut of the radiator grill. There I dotted it with dekasil.
The cable goes through the dashboard on the driver’s side, far left. Break through. This is not to be overlooked. The big, thick rubber grommet.
Since you can wade through a river with the rexton, the seals and grommets are sized and sealed accordingly. So also this. No chance to run the camera cable together with the other cables. Since we wade with the caravan on the hook (and also otherwise) rather less often through rivers, I have the cable simply next to the seal carried out. Sure, the seal is now no longer tight. But there is also no danger to the cable, the passage is not as in normal cars a simple hole in the sheet, but a wide, rounded fold. Since nothing rubs through. But if the box is 60 cm deep in water, it could start leaking through there…
(front camera. the picture was taken one year after the installation)
The rear camera (1) goes next to the license plate light on the right side. the problem with us: the sapphire package! There is the opener for the rear window on the side where the cam is supposed to go. So drill a hole on the other side. Remove the inner cover: loosen the four screws in the handles, remove the handles. unscrew the two dowels in the top center, don’t press them, otherwise they will be back in again. When assembling the tightening loop do not forget to thread it through.
(handle of the separately opening rear window)
(rear camera. Picture was taken one year after installation. The camera is really good!)
Now carefully pull the cover. Then pull off part of the film. Be careful when working! There are sharp edges! A grounding point for the current is there: use it! Just run video cable and plus wire (or just use such a four-pole ampire cable)
Place the cables behind the trim of the window frame and pull them through the designated cable guide. Unscrew two 10 screws in the trunk box, remove box. Loosen two screws on the side fairing. (one at the bottom, hidden by the box, one right in the arc under the plane windows). Now you should see the cables. I couldn’t get the bank out, was fed up, just pushed the cables under the fairing.
At this opportunity you have to pull a cable to the rear light, because the radio, more precisely the switch needs a reversing signal. I did not want to pick this up at any point in the cable jumble under the dashboard carrier.
In the sills the cables can be laid well. With both hands(!) left and right touch and pull evenly upwards! When reassembling later, pay attention to the clamps, do not bend them!
Unscrew the lower side panels of the A-pillar. cables can be fastened under the dashboard support at the provided cable fasteners with cable ties.
Reassemble everything and… done! &
The picture is deceiving. The black level of the radio is absolutely fine. You can also see no cloud formation, as in this picture.
(the button color can be adjusted (RGB))
(radio dims automatically with the MTC-toolkit). does not dazzle (requires xposed))
Good and cheap dashcams are the ones from xiaomi/70mai. A classic is this one. (1) much better is of course the A800 (1) . These dashcams can be connected to the car radio via WLAN, if you want to. But I would always leave the recording to the dashcam and not realize it in the car radio – which would also be possible with an app.
For the A800 there is also a rear dashcam (1) . Very practical, for complete idiots, the z.B. Driving too close in a traffic jam and hitting one in stop-and-go. today i would always buy a dashcam with rearcam, no question.
For parking surveillance, there is a set (1) that supplies the cameras with power even when the vehicle is stationary. Also priceless, because we like to drive armleuchter against our cars and then disappear. Don’t worry, the power supply shuts off when the car battery is about to run out of power.
The rexton W has no OBD connectors on the ISO connector. But the new radio gets along with our old bluetooth-OBD-adapter (1) without any problems. This adapter is the best on the market! It may be clunky, but it works in all conditions and for years to come! Mine has been in all my cars for 15 years and – unlike many others I bought for second cars – it still works perfectly and with all devices at the same time.
Just install the app "torque" on the radio and all kinds of telemetry data will be displayed. A warning: the OBD interface of the rexton W seems to have continuous current! The adapter does not turn off with the ignition. It will not consume much power, but nevertheless please be warned.
If you use xposed, you must first disable its modules, then pair the OBD adapter and re-enable the modules. Otherwise apps like torque or fun2drive don’t get a connection to the ecu.
Honestly? No idea. Somehow I have the impression that the rexton W is wired differently than the predecessors, because these CAN bus adapters, which retrofit functions such as cornering lights, are only released up to the rexton bj 2012. Probably the CAN bus is now controlled via the OBD-II interface. But the ELM 327-adapter (of course) can’t do that. Something vehicle-specific would have to be found. But this is just my guess. If you know more, please let me know, I would appreciate it.