apulia, italy. A region to dream and stay. Far away from the mass tourism of the upper adriatic and beaches as you know them only from sardinia or the caribbean. Here you can still find the original italy. The people are warm and the food is simple, but great. There are cities with important monuments, but also beautiful landscapes. What could be more obvious than a summer road trip to apulia??
So once again we got in the car and took a drive road trip started at the southeastern tip of italy. Whereby, I must describe this a little bit more exactly. Because the region puglia – as it is originally called in italian – is really huge! During the preparations for the trip, this gave us a bit of a headache – because we would have liked to have seen it all.
Well, two weeks is not enough for an area that has almost 20.000 km 2 and has about 800 kilometers of coastline. So we decided to make a apulia – road trip through the southern half the region.
as apulia is a perfect destination for a trip in summer, you can find this article also in the collection of recommendations for summer vacation of "wir auf reise" (we travel).
Puglia itinerary
Here you can find our stations and the route at a glance. The detailed articles on the respective locations resp. sections are also linked here. So if you want to know more, just click through the reports!
Anyway, very many beautiful places in apulia on the plan. And although we only saw a part of this region, I was surprised how versatile this piece of land is. From rocky coast over picturesque sandy beach, from trulli to baroque church everything was there. If you are looking for variety and fascinating nature and architecture, the boot heel of italy is the right place for you!
Our route suggestion for apulia may be taken over of course with pleasure& .
Arrival with own car
First of all: the way by car to apulia is long. the pure driving time from graz to bari is already more than 11 hours, with the necessary breaks of course much longer. Although we are fast car drivers and take turns driving, we were on the road for a total of about 16 hours. The cappuccini at the rest stops were just too tempting& . And a little nap in between was also necessary.
Since we left one day earlier than planned, we spontaneously decided to stop at two stages and a day at the sea in the marks to spend. There is not much to tell about this relaxing day in marotta, except that our trip got off to a worthy start here with a really beautiful sunrise. Also, we slept really well in the couches on the beach& . The adriatic sea is already much nicer on this section than on the much visited beaches further up, the water shallow, clean and quite warm, and the beach bars inexpensive.
arrival by plane
if you think it is too far to travel yourself, you can also consider flying to apulia and doing the road trip with a rental car. There are two international airports through which it is possible: bari and brindisi. most of the flights go through bari, many well known airlines fly to this destination by now.
From here, the itinerary described below can be reproduced in exactly the same way. In general, central apulia is easy to reach from bari. For salento, however, it is worth spending a few days down here in accommodation. The way all the way to the south from bari is quite long.
puglia round trip – our stops
In order to see as much as possible of southern apulia and at the same time never to sit too long in the car, we have divided our trip to five accommodation stops divided. From casamassima we explored the region around bari and alberobello , in lecce we dedicated ourselves to the baroque old town and torre san giovanni was conveniently located to discover the salento on the ionian sea. taranto was also on our itinerary, and the final stop was the absolute highlight matera.
Here I describe the destinations of our apulia round trip short and sweet. If you want to know more, click on the related articles. There you will find many tips for sightseeing and accommodation for the respective destinations.
Around bari
With refueled energy reserves, the journey started from the marche to the actual destination. Will cross two more regions (abruzzo and molise) to finally read the sign of our dreams: puglia. But, as already briefly mentioned, apulia is big, and above all long, and so it was still a good two hours drive before we finally arrived at our first fixed point: casamassima.
Never heard of it? I, before looking for a cheap accommodation in the area, neither. but the small town a bit inland is an excellent starting point for excursions to the costa di bari resp. To the murgia, where you can find the world famous alberobello.
- why casamassima is called the "azure city", although it is not blue at all, julia from italy&me wrote down
We visited the three coastal towns in the four days here bari, polignano al mare and monopoli, as well as the grotto di castallana and the enchanting little town alberobello. and we also took enough time for swimming and cliff jumping. The varied coastline is divided into sandy and rocky sections and offers rocky beach lovers like me a really great terrain with absolute fun guarantee& .
- Apulia road trip – the costa di bari
- photogenic alberobello – a place full of beautiful motifs
Lecce
On our onward journey we stopped for an afternoon at the grotta della poesia, a meanwhile very well known stretch of beach near torre dell’orso. A great place to snorkel, jump and overcome fears!
Afterwards we went on for two nights to lecce , the "florence of the south. the old town, which has a very unique style of its own in the form of "leccese baroque," is not too big, but it is very beautiful. only the massive heat has slowed us down a little in our exploratory frenzy. But we have adapted to the regional conditions and like the southern Italians simply a siesta inserted& .
Do you already know my book "arcadia and cornetti"? in it i tell about my two month trip to italy in goethe’s footsteps – sicilian hospitality, really tasty gelato and self-doubt included!
The salento on the ionian sea
The next stage led us to the ionic coast of puglia. This is just as varied as the Adriatic, but much richer in fish and the sea here seems almost Caribbean in places. Here we decided to camp for four nights in a campground near torre san giovanni.
The location was ideal salento (this is the name of the southernmost province in apulia) to explore the ionian side. So our excursions led us to santa maria di leuca, the southernmost point of apulia and gallipoli, the “beautiful city” and the adjacent baia verde. We also used the time at the campsite to relax and swim, which was quite fun due to the strong wind and waves.
- The salento on the ionian sea – between santa maria di leuca and gallipoli
Taranto / taranto
Then it went on for three nights, again in the direction of north, to taranto. On the offshore peninsula san vito we moved into our B&B and spent the ferragosto (holiday on the 15. August), which is celebrated in Italy in a big way, with good food and nice people. Taranto itself left a somewhat contradictory impression on us, but the coast below holds great things for snorkeling enthusiasts like us and made for our travel moment of the year in 2017!
matera – the highlight of the road trip
the last stop was actually not in apulia anymore, but in neighboring basilicata. But the fascinating city matera it”s only an hour and a half drive from taranto, so we didn”t want to miss it for anything. even now i find it really hard to find suitable words for the rocky town, which has a very interesting history, is surrounded by whimsical scenery and is european capital of culture in 2019. In short: it is for me the most beautiful city in all of italy!
- 8 tips for matera – the most beautiful city in italy
journey home from apulia
On the way home, which led us through the upper apulia again in the direction of the adriatic sea, we stopped at the castel del monte, the octagonal magnificent building of the staufen emperor friedrich II. although the fortress is really worth seeing from the outside, we could have spared ourselves the entrance inside. Except for walls and columns you see nothing really, the entrance fee I find with 10€ per person also really overpriced. Furthermore you pay for the parking and the shuttle bus to the castel (at least in the summer months).
With this last, instructive experience we finally headed home. From the autostrada we had for many kilometers a wonderful view of the sea, and time to let all the impressions of the last two weeks sink in. we had to say goodbye to southern italy and the hot temperatures there, cursed a little about the traffic jam and the rain and arrived tired the next morning back in graz.
numbers and tips for driving
- days on the road: 17
- kilometers traveled: approx. 3450 kilometers
- Places visited: 15
- Accommodation: 5
Apulia with the car to travel is relatively easy, but spectacular. The southern driving style can seem a bit strange, and you do well to just adapt to it. on country roads, no one really obeys speed limits, even the police disregard any speed limits, even without blue lights. I do not recommend driving fast – just so that I am not misunderstood – but at least you should be prepared to be honked at and overtaken often.
The situation in the towns seems extremely chaotic at first glance, but also has an order: you drive if you can. Every little gap is exploited to change lanes or to drive out of the intersection. With a little attention, it works out, but it”s a bit adventurous& . The same is true for freeway slip roads: here one is not used to being “let out”. So there is no point in slowing down to give the car in front space.
Away from the major nodes and highways, the traffic but quite relaxed, even in high summer. We were sometimes alone on the streets and could enjoy the area around us. Nevertheless, of course, you should always keep an eye on the road, and not only because of other road users. The roads are sometimes in terrible condition and large potholes are not uncommon. south just!
Is a summer vacation in apulia worthwhile??
In short: yes! Puglia is beautiful! Surrounded by two seas, with varied stretches of coastline that offer the desired surface (sand, gravel or rock) for everyone, it is a really great place to spend your summer holidays. both cliff jumpers and people who like snorkeling and swimming with fishes will enjoy. In the high season, the beaches are very busy, but you can always find a place to stay lonely bays. The Ionian sea is crystal clear, turquoise blue and very rich in fish – in short, a dream!
Some cities or. small towns exude a nostalgic charm in limestone or white houses and the manageable size of the towns allows to explore everything essential in day visits. You can find handicrafts and interesting museums everywhere. The prices are moderate compared to the upper italy.
also a dream – the food
The food is down-to-earth and oriented to the "cucina povera" (poor cuisine), where very tasty dishes are conjured up with a few simple ingredients. It is eaten very late in the evening – before 21:00 there is not really anything going on anywhere. You can find real typical food not so much in the ristoranti (of which there are not so many), but in an osteria or in a restaurant. Trattoria.
The wine costs very little, and the local DOC wines like primitivo di manduria, san severo or moscato di trani are really worth tasting.
One drawback
But Apulia is also dirty and obviously has a considerable garbage problem. Garbage is lying around almost everywhere, especially at the roadside, and that on closer inspection for years. It is a pity, because the landscape is really beautiful, in spite of or even because of its barrenness. It would be very praiseworthy if the politicians could take care of this problem in the next few years.
Because along with the garbage, the smell is also sometimes quite unpleasant. several times during the road trip i heard the sentence "apulia stinks!" came over the lips, but the country actually does not deserve it. In addition, in many old towns a lot of money would have to be spent to renovate existing old buildings, which often look more like ruins than houses.
On the whole, however, Puglia is one thing: typical of Italy. With grandiose cuisine and wine, loud people, sun and sea, art, rip-offs at tourist hotspots, cheap coffee, and dreamy joie de vivre& .
Puglia -road trip: psychological effects of the journey
I could lose myself in the process: the garbage along the roads drove me crazy. I would have loved to go to the government of apulia and ask them if they like the way they treat their country!
There I found myself: the southern italian flair, the good food, the beautiful sea – it doesn’t get more relaxing than this. Especially jumping off the rocks showed me once again how brave I can be&
Particularly intensive impression: definitely the many thousands of fish in the ionian sea – that was so unexpected and so beautiful!
learning experience for me: i have realized once again how good italy is for me, and that i am not infinitely heat-resistant either!
Three essential feelings of this trip: fascination, annoyance, amazement
Useful links for apulia
Of course, I don’t want to keep from you the things that accompanied us on our apulia road trip. I would also like to introduce you to our accommodations, all of which we can recommend to others!
Ilona from hiking has written a very comprehensive and informative article about a cycling tour of apulia